Water pump, oil sump, steering arm. Water pump for Massey Ferguson We are still chasing your back orders and will email you has soon as we have any news. So we ask that you bear with us at this difficult time. Whether it is a vintage or a modern tractor you should be able to identify the part by make and application.
Massey Ferguson 165 Transmission
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Quick Links. Tractor parts described as suitable for original manufacturers on this site are Sparex branded tractor replacement parts and are not manufactured by the Original Equipment Manufacturer OEM.Discussion in ' Massey Harris-Ferguson ' started by lorandApr 8, Log in or Sign up.
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Exploded Parts Diagrams
I recently bought a Massey ferguson multipower, but the multipower is stuck in low. My question is, does this cause any problems if I use the tractor just in low,beside that I don't have enginebrake? Last edited by a moderator: Apr 8, Apr 8, 2. Apr 9, 3. Apr 9, 4. I have some wire coming out of the gearbox Apr 10, 5. Seem to recall had something to do with trans not being lubed while in low range. MickeyApr 10, Apr 11, 6.
I read somewhere that if the engine is not heated up enough the multipower is not working.
Apr 12, 7. Mickey is correct if the tractor is used in low multipower for extended periods the front bearing on the multipower input housing does not get lubricated and after a period will require replacement.
Check ALL of the linkage joints and make sure there is no wear ,any wear in the linkage will reduce the effective operating travel and consequently the multipower linkage will not travel enough to engage high multipower. Have a look at this and let us know how you go.How to service your Massey Ferguson Multipower Control Valve Part 1- Dismantling the Valve
Happy days Hutch. Apr 13, 8. Apr 13, 9. Hi Lorand This is the response lever use it to safely control the rate of lowering of three point hitch equipment,say you have a disc plow which is fairly heavy ,if you move the lever to SLOW the implement will drop very safely and slowly,the more you move the lever to FAST the quicker the implement will lower.
Incidentally the bolt with the long thread ,the one in the picture next to the red wire is the foot brake adjustment if the brake pedals hit the footplate when you push the brake pedals down First unlock the latch that connects the two pedals together Then tighten the nuts MAXIMUM TWO FULL TURNS at a time till the pedal travels down and stops about one inch from the foot plate ,do this to the other side and when you get them both about the same lock the both pedals together and try the brakes ,drive in second gear say three miles per hour and gently apply the brakes when they are adjusted properly the both should lock at the same time Make sure the handbrake is in the OFF position before adjusting.
Just a word of caution do not overtighten the brakes or you will smell something burning the brake pedals by design are meant to have plenty of clearance. Happy Days Hutch. Last edited: Apr 13, Apr 14, Hi Hutch Thanks for the information,I adjusted the brakes because only one of the brakes worked,now both of the brakes work,and at the same time Apr 15, Hi lorand It sounds like you have had Practical experience with the Massey Multi Power system,I once had to explain to a customer why his tractor when he was unloading it from the back of a semi trailer was doing 20 miles per hour when it got to the bottom of the loading ramps being in low multipower it ended up that the company swapped his multipower tractor for a standard eight speed much safer.
Any how that was a good introduction to the Multipower and i hope you pass this onto others who may face the same experience. Apr 17, I don't understan what are you trying to say,that this tractor is not a multipower tractor? And another problem,I see on tractordata that the multipower has 12 gears Hi lorand.
The front bearing on the gearbox relies on oil from the high side of the multipower to lubricate it ,if you don't use high multipower the bearing does not get oil and will eventually seize and you will have to strip the gearbox to fix.This guide is also relevant to Massey Ferguson 35 and 35X tractors with Perkins diesel engines see below for more details.
About The Course. Does your tractor clutch need replacing or setting up correctly? Is one of these you? Information is included for both the 11" and the 12" clutch versions see below for more details. Oil Seals. Whilst the tractor is split to work on the clutch, it makes sense to also work on the other components that are within the clutch housing. Oil entering the clutch housing is often a problem with these tractors. The oil gets onto the clutch plates and damages them.
We look at how to replace the input shaft seals and the engine shaft seal. It is very easy to damage the seals whilst fitting them, so we look at the best method of doing this. We also take a look at the Multi-Power control valve and the Multi-Power control shaft seals. Failure of these components is often the reason that the Multi-Power is not working as it should. Mechanics can charge a lot of money to replace a clutch, and it's a task anyone can do with the right knowledge.
Do the job yourself, save some money, and know it's been done correctly. Don't hire a mechanic who doesn't know what they're doing!
165 multi power
If a clutch replacement is not done correctly then you will soon be back splitting the tractor again for another replacement. Massey Ferguson tractors were fitted with either a 11" or a 12" clutch, depending on the age of the tractor 11" clutch up to serial number The tutorial was filmed with a tractor that had the 11" clutch.
The 12" clutch is of the same design and the procedure is the same as for the 11" clutch. All the information required for the 12" clutch is included in the course. Massey Ferguson 35 and 35X tractors with Perkins diesel engines have the same clutch as in this guide 11" main clutch plate. This guide is not relevant to the following tractors Centralising Tool. Detailed dimensions are also given for the clutch centralising tool, so you can either manufacture your own or make sure you purchase the correct tool.
The photo below shows a selection of centralising tools we've made for various different makes and models.
The videos take you through the process in step-by-step detail. No previous mechanical experience is required. It is very difficult nearly impossible to replace the clutch components on some models of tractors in the home workshop. It is simply a case of splitting the tractor, removing the old clutch pack and replacing with a new ready-assembled unit.
This is therefore expensive. One of the good things about the Massey Ferguson clutches is that they can be easily dismantled and the individual components can be replaced as necessary. This makes it much less expensive, and more fun! With over 30 years experience repairing tractors, Ian is the head mechanic at Vintage Tractor Engineer.
Thousands of people have watched Ian's tractor maintenance videos. He's now one of the most well known tractor mechanics across the world. Usually found in the workshop rebuilding engines, refurbishing hydraulic systems, finding electrical faults, doing brakes, clutches, wheel bearings, axles, differentials, gearboxes, fuel injection pumps, diagnosing problems. If you understand how a mechanical system works then you can usually diagnose the fault.
Hi, I have all your videos - and I really enjoy the intelligent pace of them Ian instructs very well and assumes correctly the level and ability of his audienceWe are often asked how the multi power system on models such as the Massey Ferguson 65,etc. What really seems to intrigue people is that the engine braking system works when in high multi-power, but there is no engine braking when in low multi-power………. With the multi-power system there is one hydraulic clutch pack and also a ratchet type assembly.
When in low multi the hydraulic clutch is dissengaged and the drive goes through a pair of gears into a ratchet clutch which takes the drive to the gearbox. There is no engine breaking in low multi because of the ratchet clutch. When you move the transmission to high multi it locks up the hydraulic clutch and the hydraulic clutch gear drives another gear. Because the drive is now turning faster than through the low-multi ratchet clutch, this now becomes a free-wheeling device. It is for this reason that there is engine braking in high multi power, but no engine braking in low multi power.
This is also why if you are in high multi going up a hill and you depress the clutch pedal that whilst in gear no roll-back can occur because of the ratchet clutch. The hydraulic multi-power clutch is not torque converter, but is merely a multi-plate hydraulically operated clutch pack. The good thing about this is that there is no loss of power through to the gearbox. The clutch is a conventional clutch and so is the 3 speed gearbox.
I have a MF articulated tractor with the multipower feature. It is advisable to operate in high for all work and only change to low when the going suddenly gets tougher, such as having to turn up a hill or strike a bit of hard ground while ploughing. The reason for this is that when in high, some of the oil that operates the clutch is used to lubricate several parts of the gearbox internally. When low is selected, this lubrication ceases, but it is OK to stay in low for short periods of time.
The most common reason for the multipower to stay in low is a loss of the pressure necessary to operate the clutch. The clutch is spring loaded to the low setting by default and it is the pressure being applied that changes it to high. If the clutch is slipping, this could also be lack of pressure, but just as likely, worn clutch plates. There is a place where i can take a oil pressure reading before disassemble all. Can you advise me on the correct way to engage the diff-lock?
However, the multi-power gearboxes are 3 gears x 2 with the multi-power whereas the standard gearbox tractors have 4 gears. As a result I think the standard gearbox tractors tend to be lower geared. I was going to suggest looking for a tractor with creeperbox in the Lincolnshire region Englandbut see you are in Canada! Hi, I am looking at a high clearance with multipower for my vegetable operation. I am wondering if multipower in low would be slower than the regular gear speed.I recently purchased an Multi Shift and am adjusting to the handle and tendencies of MF versus John Deere tractors like and Quad Range types.
Big difference is in how cumbersome it is to shift to different gears on the I changed all fluids, hydraulics, engine and filters. The hydraulic oil much less the filter did not appear to have ever been changed. Tractor has hours, appear to be legit. At times i take out of gear and into park and when i release clutch the tractor is locked in place but will stall out and die.
This is the only problem i have found, this tractor is awesome, the Perkins sounds like a dream and is very fuel efficient. Go to Solution.
That's the nature of the beast. I have an that operates similar. Put the multi-power in low when shifting gears, leaving it in high locks it in gear.
That's why you put multi-power in hi for engine braking. And don't use park unless absolutely necessary. Here in Ohio flatlands I rarely use park. View solution in original post. I never had anbut have run one and have owned other MF tractors, so I really don't know what is going on there. I will offer that it is not normal for it to have the shifting problems you describe, especially on a low hour machine.
It sounds like it is going into park and a gear at the same time and that should not happen with tight and functioning shifting parts. I think the pin you found is likely to be part of the shifting mechanism, maybe in the shifting rails or forks or the detents that hold it in gear. There is slop there that should not be there and possibly some binding because something is not being held in the right position.
It might last a long time that way, but it should shift nicer than you describe, although they never were a dream to shift.Shop Now. View Cart. Allis Chalmers. Farmall IH.
Ford 9N,2N,8N. John Deere. Massey Ferguson. View previous topic :: View next topic. I have a MF diesel with multipower. It was purchased new by my great uncle. When I am using the multipower in high range I find that it is very difficult to shift between gears. Sometimes I question if I will ever get it out of gear, while other times it seems to work fine. When I am in the low range of multipower I can shift through the gears with no problem.
The transmission oil looks like new and it is always stored in the barn. Any idea as to what the problem may be? It seems like getting it to go from reverse to neutral is the most challenging. Back to top.
Always shift transmission gears with the MP in Low range. Bob N. If you experiment a little, you will find that if the tractor is pointed downhill, it will come out of any forward gear in high M-P with ease.
If it is pointed uphill in a forward gear and high M-P, it will lock up when you push the clutch. That is the "hill holding" feature. Be thankful your M-P is working. Thank you for the replies. The linkage needs to be adjusted because when I have it in MP high, you cannot put it back in MP low unless you get off the tractor and lift the plunger by hand. Looks like an easy fix, just been too lazy to actually do it.
My father told me that his uncle would never use the MP but he wasn't sure why, we just assumed it did not work. I mow a five acre field with the tractor and using MP high reduces my mow time by about 30 minutes. Low range third, MP high gives me a ground speed of 4mph.
MP low is closer to 3MPH. On my brothers with multipower I never noticed any difference on how it shifted when it was in either high, or low range multipower. I don't know if my brother didn't either because I've seen him change gears with the multipower in either range.
We never changed gears while on a hill, only while on flat ground. Alternatively when in 'high' MP press the clutch fully. Should be no problem then. DavidP, South Wales.We are often asked how the multi power system on models such as the Massey Ferguson 65,etc.
What really seems to intrigue people is that the engine braking system works when in high multi-power, but there is no engine braking when in low multi-power……….
With the multi-power system there is one hydraulic clutch pack and also a ratchet type assembly. When in low multi the hydraulic clutch is dissengaged and the drive goes through a pair of gears into a ratchet clutch which takes the drive to the gearbox. There is no engine breaking in low multi because of the ratchet clutch. When you move the transmission to high multi it locks up the hydraulic clutch and the hydraulic clutch gear drives another gear.
Because the drive is now turning faster than through the low-multi ratchet clutch, this now becomes a free-wheeling device. It is for this reason that there is engine braking in high multi power, but no engine braking in low multi power. This is also why if you are in high multi going up a hill and you depress the clutch pedal that whilst in gear no roll-back can occur because of the ratchet clutch.
The hydraulic multi-power clutch is not torque converter, but is merely a multi-plate hydraulically operated clutch pack. The good thing about this is that there is no loss of power through to the gearbox. The clutch is a conventional clutch and so is the 3 speed gearbox. Steve, You seem to be a great source of info on the multi power. Works fine in low.
My question: Before I have the tractor worked on, is it possible there is a filter stopped up or something that could cause the high multi not to work properly? I read in one of your comments that the gears would be hard to change in high. I have experienced that too while subsoiling. It stuck at the end of every row unless I was quick to get it out of gear before I completely stopped. Thanks, Randy. Hey steve.